Cast of Characters

 I thought it would be nice for you guys to see the faces of all the people I've been talking about.  So here ya go.

Maria Luisa!

Grace

 

Victoria and Sam

DDV

 

Bianca

 

Matt

Kasey

Pienza and Orvieto

DDV was right, the road was windy.  I wasn't feeling so hot and I didn't even drink the night before.  This tiny town was built by Pope Pius II for his family and friends, but has since become a quaint little village famous for their cheese. We arrived in Pienza and the town was empty.  That's a funny thing about Italians.  If its cold outside or there is snow on the ground, they don't leave their homes.  Also it wasn't just cold on the top of this little mountain, it was frigid.

It was even colder in the Duomo.  

 Then we had time to walk around and take photos of the view.

Also I found a huge piece of an icicle.

We were only in Pienza for 2 hours and then were on our way to Orvieto, where we had to take an incline train to actually reach the town.  Orvieto was a unique town with its own flavor.  I kept seeing strange wooden sculptures on the sides of buildings (See album) and there was a boars head hanging outside just about every other shop.  DDV offered us a guided lesson in the duomo which was a lot like the duomo in Siena but had a Eucharistic Miracle in a side chapel.  There were no photos allowed, but I'm a bad listener.

After the duomo, DDV lead a group of us back to train to be back to the bus by 5pm.  We arrived at the train at 4:25, thus had time to spare so I decided to explore this ancient looking road the curved down the mountain...

I snagged a few good shots, and then had the genius idea of following the road all the way to the bottom, how far could it be?  With 10 minutes to go, half way down the mountain I started to run, just so as to not be late.  5 minutes to go I hit a crossroad and didn't know which way was up.  I run to the right for 500m, nothing.  500m to the left, nothing.  I find a courier and ask her which way it is to the train station and if she could drive me there.  (It's amazing how good my Italian was when I was scared still be the wrath of DDV).  Unfortunately I had no luck, and I decided the only way for me to get home was to walk back up the mountain. - - You are probably asking why I was not calling DDV to tell him I would be late.  That's a good question, with the answer that my phone was dead so I didn't even have it on me...  I'm running up this steep hill, asthma flaring because it's cold, I'm losing a pound a minute in sweat because I'm bundled up and I'm starting to get light headed.  If my time on the crew team taught me only one thing, it's that the mid can conquer what the body deems impossible, so I just keep putting one foot in front of the other and decide I will not miss that bus.  I reach the train just a minute before it leaves, heaving and hacking because I can't get any air.  Both the people around me and I are afraid I'm going to throw up on some one.  The train arrives and I see Aurora's concerned face, but as I turn the corner I see DDV and he is making some Italian gesture I interpret to be, "You think you're in pain now, wait til you deal with me."  We get back to the bus (15 minutes late), and I am greeted with sarcastic applause, "oh thanks for joining us," but then some genuine concern from my friends.  I'm not the type to get lost or kidnapped so it was a little unsettling especially when they couldn't reach me.

As we returned to Rome, DDV got on the mic and thanked us for a wonderful trip, being well behaved, and, "being on time... for the most part," he said with a smile.  It was reassuring jab that let me know he didn't want to kill me anymore.

Driving [with] Ms. Daisy

Tonight I went out to dinner with Maria Luisa, her son Mario, his wife and son.  To get there we had to drive, just Maria Luisa and me... cue appropriate theme music.  Picture Betty White peering over the steering wheel of some 1980's clunker and that's basically what happened.  The car was in a tight spot, no more than a a foot on either side, and pulling out went exactly as you might think with an old lady driving stick.  Hand over hand dry turn for 10 seconds (no power steering), lurch forward, hand over hand dry turn the other direction, lurch backwards.  Rinse and repeat until desired outcome is achieved.

The drive there (all 7 minutes) was nothing but hysterical.  I'm glad it was night and she was focused on the road because I could barely contain myself.  She would zip down streets, only to crawl through intersections or roundabouts, never quite figured out the lights and blinkers, and even turned the wrong way down a one way street.  We found a parking spot right outside the restaurant, and it took her 4 minutes to park, which made no sense because she has a tiny car and this was the biggest parking spot I had ever seen in Rome.  It could have easily fit two Italian cars or an American sedan. 

Dinner was awkward for a bit.  I was tired so my Italian was lacking and only Mario spoke English, very little at that.  It took me almost half an hour to figure out who they were.  I had ravioli in nut sauce again.  (I didn't know it was nut sauce until after I ate it, I only knew that I liked it), and then grilled shrimp (with heads, tails, and legs) and the tiny octopus.  No joke... a tiny, purple, grilled octopus, tentacles and all.  (Mom and Dad I never want to hear about never finishing my vegetables again)  If I didn't need to make a good first impression I totally would have made it sing and dance.

Mario's son, Giulo, joined us very late for dinner; we were almost ready for dessert.  His English wasn't great, but he was able to help me out in conversation with everyone else when I had a sentence to complex for me to say in Italian.  He was extremely friendly, gave me his name and number, and he told me he DJ's at a club in Rome, and when he performs he will put me on "the list." It was overall a great night, experiencing food, learning more about the Italian language, and drinking wine of course.

Arezzo

When we arrived in Arezzo, we had a nice dinner at the hotel, a usual pasta and then pork with mushrooms in an oil and butter sauce.  After dinner, DDV led a group of us into town (15 min walk) to get a drink called 'grappa.'  When we arrived at the bar, he was served a glass and told us it was made from fermented grape husks, essentially Italian whiskey, but clear.  I took one whiff of it and I lost every hair in my nose.  That stuff could take paint off the walls.  I settled for a beer across the street...

The walking tour of Arezzo was very nice, and again very hilly.  The movie La Vita è Bella was filmed in Arezzo, and DDV pointed out various buildings that appeared or were used in the filming.  (It's a great movie.  If you haven't seen it, please do.  Watch it in Italian with English subtitles.  That way you can enjoy "Buongiorno Princepessa!")

We had a 30 minute lesson in Basilica d. San Francesco where we viewed the The History of the True Cross, a myth on the life of the wood used to crucify Christ.  We were then given 4 hours to explore the town, and Arezzo quickly became my favorite.

Arezzo Duomo

Grace and I ventured away from the group and tucked into a little trattoria for lunch.  No one was in this place and an older woman who didn't speak English offered us menus.  When she took our order, she scoffed when we didn't order secondi piatti, obviously an insult to her Italian culture.  Grace got the soup and I ordered gnocchi, because it's different everywhere in Italy and was very happy with it, though not satisfied.

I forgot to take a picture of it, but here's the after...

I got the woman's attention and when I asked for a menu, her face just lit up.  I had a question about word I did not know, and she went into a long explanation about pork something with potatoes and how its so great and I would love it... but they didn't have it that day.  She then described the "piatti del giorno" (plates of the day) and I said, "I'll take that."  She looked at me puzzled and asked, "Quale?"  Apparently I didn't understand there was more than one, so I just told her to surprise me.  I was surprised with the same dish I had the night before.

Porchetta con funghi

And I enjoyed it just the same.

We then ordered due cappuccini perche abbiamo avuto molto tempo a Arezzo e abbiamo voluto sperimentare un pranzo autentico italiano.  The two older, but obviously young at heart guys turned on the TV above the to watch the Simpsons (we were the only two in the place) and we made the effort to watch as well, seeing if we could understand.  We were able to get the gist of it, and I one point I laughed out loud and one of the guys turned around and smiled at me.  Apparently impressed that this American guy got an Italian joke.  Just as we were finishing our cappuccinos, a woman in a bakers outfit brought us out a few pieces of small fried dough, and we looked at it puzzled and she told us, "Dolce per Carnevale!"  It was awesome.  Restaurant owners will take much better care of you if you make the effort to dine like an Italian.  I have ordered wine and a pasta dish and been basically ignored on the way out, but when you order all the courses and take your time, the service and experience is so much better.

Grace and I wandered around for the last hour, exploring a park at the top of the town and the view was beautiful...

We lost track of time and had to rush back into town to catch the bus to take us to a wine tasting and dinner at a 12th century castle.  Upon our departure, DDV stood up and gave us the best news of the weekend.  He worked his magic and extended the trip for a third day (which was cut in the rescheduling) and we would be going to Pienza and Orvieto the next day.  The announcement was followed by a PSA that the next morning would be very windy, so don't get too drunk tonight.

Siena

Our trip to Tuscany was pushed back a weekend by the snow, and plans suffered because of it.  We were originally leaving on a Saturday and returning Monday night, but because it was pushed back the weekend we were going to Venezia, Saturday was unavailable.  We left Sunday morning for an abbreviated trip, Sunday in Siena, Monday in Arezzo, and back to Rome for class Tuesday afternoon. Everyone got on the bus with a feeling of apathy to this trip, cut short so we can get back to Italiaidea, which everyone is sick of attending.

The turn around from Venice to Siena was longer than anticipated, which gave me time to adequately take care of myself before I got on a cramped tour bus for four hours.  I had time for a long shower, breakfast with Maria Luisa, and the rechecking of all my crap.  (I have become to be know as the guy with the backpack) 

It had snowed in Rome while we were in Venice, two to three more inches over 5 hours, on top of the already packed melt ice, so of course there were no buses running.  I make it back with time to school with time to spare, and file on to the bus with all the other zombies.  This bus was a just one collective hangover from Carnevale and the train from frozen hell.  Speaking of which the heat wasn't working on the bus either.  I don't know what it is with Italians and being "senza riscaldamento," but I'm over it. 

Upon our arrival in Siena, we were told to take with us what we would like for the day and of course I wanted all trinkets and doodads for my camera, but I decided to travel light with just my camera body, two lenses, and a cleaning cloth.  We are herded out of the bus, around a huge brick wall along a path covered in packed snow, turned to ice.  (Seriously Italy, get your act together.  If you shovel right after it snows, you wont have to fight ice for two weeks like you are now…).  Thankfully the slip n slide adventure ends with no injuries, and we are greeted with a beautiful view over Siena (Siena is very hilly, so we were really just looking over the valley at the Duomo and S. Dominico).  DDV starts his lecture (because this weekend is just a long/fun field trip) with the phrase, “Siena is a city literally ‘frozen’ in the 14^th century.”  He gets a few chuckles from the frostbitten (exaggeration) students, but it becomes evident this joke was just for his enjoyment, which I then find pretty funny.

Another whirlwind tour through another town on another frigid day.  Sensing a theme?  I am.  But in all seriousness Siena is beautiful.  The Duomo..

Quick aside - Did you know the word “Dome” comes from the Latin “Duomo,” but they do not mean the same thing.  Duomo means “cathedral.”  And is similar in German, “Dom.”  English speakers assumed that all these cathedrals with rounded roofs were called Duomo because of a Dome... But it really just means cathedral.  Man, America just has to ruin everything doesn’t it?

The Duomo in Siena is wicked.  I’ve never been creeped out by a church before, until now; this one gave me the heebie-jeebies, though it is still stunningly beautiful.  On the inside, all of the walls and columns are constructed by alternating slabs of white and green (which looks black) marble, giving it a Beetlejuice-esqe look.

 The Duomo borrows from the Romanesque style but is primarily Gothic.  The main difference is that old Roman churches were built as a journey from the narthex, through the nave, sanctuary, and finishing with salvation in the apse, whereas Gothic churches were rigid in their structure.  There is no movement through the church; instead everyone is called to glorify God from their specific place in society.  There is no moving from the back to front pews, but instead everyone is equal in their call to serve God from where they are.

We had time for lunch before a museum tour, and we found a hole in the wall off the main square Piazza di Campo it was just cold.  The Tuscany region is famous for their fresh, organic foods, and game, but we decided to go with the traditional soup dish Ribollita and we were not disappointed. 

After a tour of the Museo Civico we had some free time, then piled back on to the bus for an hour and a half ride to the hotel in Arezzo.

It's a cool place and they say it gets colder. You're bundled up now wait 'til you get to Venice.

 Italiaidea, our Italian language school, plans activities and excursions that we can participate in to experience Italian culture in a fuller way.  Our trip to Venezia was one such activity, 85 Euro for the fast train there, and a night train return.

Saturday
February 11
6:00AM

Our train left Rome at 7:20, so we were to meet at Termini by 6:45.  I arrived early and explored the station looking for breakfast.  I settled on a cappuccino and muffin at a bar, but then became aware of the presence of a McDonald's.  

I was so excited to get my McMuffin on, only to find that this McDonald's did not serve breakfast.
I was not happy.

#FirstWorldProblems

I got over it and got on the train.  Francesca, an Italiaidea teacher and our "guide" for Venezia, told us to get on train cars 4 and 5 with no further direction.  After we get settled on the train we find out we actually have seat numbers and have to do musical chairs with the Italians and settle in a new area.  This would be a precursor to the organization of travel on this trip.

The inside was beautiful, spacious, and comfortable and it seemed as if the train was brand new

The train was more than nice.  It was a Trenitalia high speed train, straight out of Mission:Impossible.  (Except that was in France.  I think....)

  

The inside was beautiful, spacious, and comfortable and it seemed as if the train was brand new.

 

I sat with my new friends from Loyola Victoria and Samantha (who have pet names for each other, Licky and Lamby, respectively) and Grace.  The train ride was comfortable and even enjoyable; I was glad we had a 4 hour trip.  We passed through some regions that were hammered with snow (see photos on the website) but luckily Venice appeared to have been spared.

12:30 PM
We stepped off the trained and were greeted by a blast of cold air, another precursor for the day.  My dad was soooooo right when he told me that Italy was in the 50's everyday and convinced me that I would not need my heavy wool coat...  but I do.   First stop was to the tourist stand so Francesca could buy a map; she had never been to Venice before.  (uh oh).  She leads us through small, winding streets until we come out of what honestly seemed like a maze to the famous Piazza S. Marco.  Masks and costumes are everywhere, even all the tourists, from old Austrian couples to American Bros and Biddies screaming "DUDE", are wearing masks.  Venetian Masks

We get lunch and wander around, see a couple different parades, take photos out by the water, quickly head back into the city because its so cold, and pop into every little shop as we try to keep warm.  At 5pm we met up with Francesca who is leading us to "Theater and Chocolate."  This sounds cool, but it soon becomes apparent that she has no idea where we are going and after an hour of winding through the frigid streets we arrive at the piazza and there is nothing.  Oops.  The girls and I quickly slip away when it becomes evident there is nothing to do but go to dinner.  We finally decide to buy our masks, but we can't just buy at any stall (they all sell them), we need to compare prices and find the best deal.  After noting a few masks, I spot this store tucked in a corner with large "50%" signs on the windows.  We step in and it is a mask shop selling them for half price.  The half masks were 7 Euro, and the big "joyful mask" I had my eye on was 18.  So of course we all bought our masks there.

7:00 PM

After mask shopping we decided it was time for dinner.  It was still early, but it's too cold to stay out on the street any longer.  We beat the Italian dinner rush by and hour, sit and enjoy our pasta or pizza, two bottles of wine, dessert and cappuccini. For two hours, but it was warm and in good company.

10:30
We left plenty of time to get back to the train station, so much were were 30 minutes early.  Our train home is a night train, complete with cabins and beds.  We are all excited for this new experience which we call our "Harry Potter moment," except for Victoria.  She has taken a night train once before and had a disastrous experience; she makes sure we don't get too complacent.  Sure enough, an hour into the trip as we lay our heads to the pillow, the heat goes out.  It was well below freezing outside and the train wasn't very well insulated.  We all struggled through the night, though I did less than most because of my genetic talent to fall asleep anywhere.  When we arrived at Termini the heat had still not come on and we were still in the clothes were wore the day before, thus not happy.

Saturday
February 12
7:00AM
And we had 2 hours to get to school for a bus to Siena...