30 January 2012

One Friend, Two Friend; Old Friend, New Friend

During my first week in Rome, an old friend of mine, let's call him... Matt, kept calling and texting my American cell phone.  I have no idea why these were getting through (I had turned off celluar date), but I ignored them so as to not run up a crazy phone bill.  Ok, I'm already over telling this.  Long story short Matt's in Rome.  Cool.

We met in Trastevere, a happening night area, and started off walking from Piazza Trilussa at a pretty decent pace.  He had been in Trastevere for a bit already and came out to meet me, so I assumed I was following him until we hit a pretty quiet and residential area and he turns to me and asks, "So where're we going?" Oops.

One note of the conversation we had while walking.  We were talking about style and looking American/Italian/other and Matt says, "I don't look like anyone here, cause no one is wearing and aquarium shirt up in this bitch"

 It basically looked like this.


We eventually find a restaurant, but not really sure how to go in, so we just commit to a door and walk in, chat the old lady for our table and as we are sitting down we realize this isn't the right restaurant.  We look at each other, at at the same time say, "let's just go."  As we make for the door, we hear the lady calling at us, so we just walk faster.

It was nice being out with another person who can speak Italian.  Typically when I go out with people in my program I am the one to speak the Italian to whomever we need to speak to, either because people don't know it or are not confident enough to just give it a whirl.  Dinner was bruschetta, spinach and ricotta ravioli in a cream sauce, and of course a bottle of wine.  Under 30 euro for the two of us, not too bad.  We talked about his first few days in Rome and my couple weeks, and in my stories I mention my new friend Bianca and all the interesting things she does (that part is actually important to this story).

Heading out of the restaurant, we were looking for a bar or cafe where we could sit outside and have a drink when Matt asks me, "so what is Bianca up to tonight?"  We turn the corner and who do we see?  The ultimate nocturnal huntress, on the prowl for completely suspecting Italian men.  Well technically Bianca heard us before we saw her, but it was still a surprise.

We stand around and chat, eventually decide to join forces and find a place to hang out.  We take a chance on this little place called "The Bakery."  (The name was actually English, no translation there).  It's quaint,  has decent drink prices, and wasn't too crazy yet (11:30 is still early in Italy), but the best part of this place was the music.  Classic 60's and 70's American standards.  The Rolling Stones, The Who, Elvis, Otis Redding, The Beatles.  It was like a big warm hug.

The whole night was great, a lot of laughs and interesting conversation.  Everyone enjoyed each others company and we will definitely be doing it again.  

25 January 2012

Joseph Krzysko, World Traveller

Boom.  I'm going to Poland, just like that.

We are still somewhere between the planning and booking stages for Venezia, Firenze, Assisi and Lanciano, Malta, and a destination so awesome I probably shouldn't tell mom and dad about it until I have returned safely.  I am so excited to be able to do all of this, but I am going to be sooooo broke.

Once in a lifetime.  (That's just what I am telling myself.)

24 January 2012

Notte del Calcio

Tonight Roma plays Juventus in the quarter finals of the Coppa Italia (As i write this it is 2-0 Juve in the 76').  The game started just as we sat down for dinner.  I knew Maria Luisa liked soccer; she always had the Roma games on.  But every time she heard a roar from the TV (it wasn't in view from the table) she was up in front of the television.  I haven't even seen that kind of love for a team from the crazies back home.  Soccer is bigger than just a sport over here, it's ingrained in the lives of every Italian.

Update: 90' Juve scores to make it 3-0 and Maria Luisa is yelling at the TV.  I <3 this woman.  (yes I just did that, get over it)

Sidenote: Gaetanno has FIFA on PS3 and has challenged me to a game.  Its on.

23 January 2012

What am I listening to?

I may have brought this up in an earlier post, but I realized that listening to English music was corrupting my full immersion experience, so I decided to find an alternative/indie style Italian group.  But boy was that hard.  "Alternative" in Italy is a guy whining while he plays the acoustic guitar.  Luckily I stumbled upon Subsonica.  They are very electronic, with a lot of syntesizer, but also utilize the traditional rock music intruments.  Their style is extremely diverse, from dubstep, to something like Sublime, and at times hip hop.  At first I just enjoyed the music, but then decided to explore their lyrics. 

*Philosophy Warning* I enjoy music for how it makes me feel.  Music is so much more than notes on a page or pitches of soudns and silences recognized by the ear and interpreted by the brain.  I can only tell music is good if I can feel it or if the lyrics make me feel something.  When I translated Subsonica's lyrics, I was impressed and excited by their use of imagery and phrase.  Here are some of my favorite songs, with selected translated excerpts.

Tra Gli Dei (Among the Gods)
Hai chiesto un posto tra glie dei - You asked for a place among the gods
oltre gli insetti di questo universo - other than the insects of this universe

Sul Sole (On the Sun)
a vacanza sul sole - In vacation on the sun
addormentami per ore - I sleep for hours
immaginarmi migliore di te - I imagine a better you

La Funzione (The Function)
Its difficult to literally translate this song, so I'll just give you the gist of the chorus:
"The function is simple,
the variable is not.
You listen to me,
then offer yourself"

Istrice (Porcupine)
Quel bacio alcolico - That kiss, alcohol
Rossetto e guai - lipstick and trouble
Eì stato facile - it was easy
Non lo è stato mai - but it never was

la Mia Prima Notte con il GialloRosso

This post is going to be half compare/contrast, half story, half "How to go to an AS Roma match."

Me and my friend Grace at the game
I've been in attendence at a "European" football match.  (Chelsea v. AC Milan), but it was a summer exhibition in Baltimore with mostly American fans.  That game was nothing like this.  That game wasn't even a taste of European football, it was a sniff to allow you to imagine what a European match would taste like.

Buying tickets is easy only if you know what you are doing.  Tickets are sold at every AS Roma team store, you need a valid, original, legal identification to buy a ticket (your name goes on the ticket to prevent third party markets), and if you want tickets together everyone has to be present at the time of purchase.  My ticket was 13 Euro, and girls are 6.  After the debacle that was getting everyone to buy tickets from the unfriendly Italian man, we split up and were going to meet at the stadium.  Stadio Olimpico is about 10 minutes from my house, and I knew generally how to get there, but I just turned north and followed il giallo e rosso.

One does not simply walk into Stadio Olimpico.  First, one walks up Viale delle Olimpiadi, flanked by ancient style stadiums from the 1960 Olympics and 20 foot statues of ancient Roman athletes.  Then comes the modern checkpoint to enter the park around the stadium where I had to present my ticket with ID and could have been chosen for a random search by the Carabineiri, but wasn't (I just look so trustworthy). From there I had to find my section specific gate.  It's not like the US where you can go into any gate and walk around the stadium inside.  Each area of the stadium (3-4 sections) is separated by an 8 foot glass wall.  When I found my gate (Curva Nord 47,47,48), I had to scan my ticket in an NYC subway style turnstile (bars and all), present my ticket and ID again, then have it ripped.

Pleasant surprises of the evening included my seat being in the secondary home section, the area behind the goal Roma shoots first, only 15 rows from the field.  (The famous/infamous home section is Curva Sud directly across from us.)  Also a beer and a water only cost 6 Euro.  #vabene.
Curva Sud
I am a sucker for the pregame festivities.  I have been in attendance for the "Nightmare" and "We are One" intros at Caps games, and starting defense introductions, complete with Hot in Herre, at Ravens Games.  But they have NOTHING, on Roma.

I have included links to two videos of what I am about to talk about just so you can get a good idea (though not from the game I attended)  First the opposing team is introduced.  In the first video that team is Inter Milan, and you will here the boos.  Then the home side is introduced and the announcer says the player's number and first name and the crowd follows with his last name.  Francesco Totti is the last player to be introduced.  AS Roma player introductions.  Then everyone stands, holds their scarves in the air and sings ROMA ROMA ROMA.
Basically what ever is illegal in American Stadiums, Romans do in Stadio Olimpico.  I'm surprised they haven't accidentally burned that place down yet.

 

My view of ROMA ROMA ROMA
Action Shot!

The game was great.  Totti scored for Roma on his first shot in the first minute (right in front of us), then followed it up with another in the fourth, and suddenly Roma was up 3-0, 9 minutes in.  Final score was Roma 5-1 Cesena.

I think I will go to every game I can while I am here, and I can't wait to take my brother Michael when he comes to visit, and maybe my parents if they are feeling brave.
Next up is Roma v. Bologna on Sunday.
More photos can be found at josephvphoto.com/asroma.  Email questions and comments to krzyskoj@gmail.com.

21 January 2012

Nella Discotecha

I just got home from my first real night out in Roma.  Its 4:22 AM.  It's all still quite a blur considering I was there for 4 hours.  American clubs have nothing on the discoteca (as far as I know, not being 21 and all), but if I thought I wasn't coming home before this really sealed the deal.

Needless to say it was an interesting evening "nella discotecha" ("in the discoteca" for you non Italian speakers).  I got back so late because I made sure the four girls from my program I left with got back safely.  Tomorrow, whenever I get up... , we are buying tickets to the AS Roma game for tomorrow night, and on Sunday I have a trip to Anzio for the anniversary of the Allied landing in WWII.

UPDATE: Saturday Morn- ...er.... Afternoon...
This Morning Maria Luisa was all smiles (as usual) and aske me how my night went.  I said great, and she followed up to ask what time I go home.  I kind of balked at teh question becuase I wasn't sure of a few of the words she used, but when she saw my hesitation, she smiled deviously and wiggled 4 fingers.

19 January 2012

Assimilation

My goal for my time is Italy is to fully immerse myself in the culture and lifestyle.  Even though I may only be pretending, I wanted to BE Italian for four months.

Before I left for Italy I bought myself a stylish pair of Ray Ban sunglasses becuase I knew sunglasses were big in Italy.  But boy was that an underestimation (more on that later).

First impressions are everything.

Step 1.
Nothing identified me as an American student more than my Northface and backpack combo.  Italians just don't do that.  If they're wearing a Northface, its a big snow-worthy coat, and no backpacks.  Shoulder/messengers bags, purses, and manpurses only (I kid you not men carry around Loius Vuitton bags).  So I was shopping around for a coat for a week or so, finding coats anywhere from 300E to 160E, and this was on sale.  I was about to give in and buy a 180E coat (don't tell my parents), when a friend showed me Zara, which is the Italian equivalent to H&M.  I found a coat there for 80E.  It looked great; double breasted buttons, epilets, and a high collar for when I want to look like an asshole.

Step 2.
The Scarf  Italians are AWLAYS wearing scarves.  Inside, outside, upside down.  Just like their sunglasses (The sun never sets on an Italian).  Again scarves were ridiculously expensive, 60E-120E.  No thanks.  During one of my wandering periods, I stepped into a store that looked to be reasonably priced (the tags in the window are less than 40E for a sweater).  I poked around and found long, soft, plaid scarf for 13E.  Go me.

Step 3.
The Bag.  I have had no luck finding shouler bags for men, so i just ditched the back pack and reconfigured my camera bag for daily use.

Step 4. 
The Fit.  I thought I had this one secured before I left, but apparently not.  Italians wear fitted clothes, nothing is baggy or loose fitting here.  I moved on from boot cut to straight leg jeans about a year ago.  I just think they look nicer and the fit can traverse casual to dress casual.  Come to find out straight leg is baggy to Italians.  I'm walking around in my coat and scarf, shade on, hair all did up (EVERYONE does their hair, even the 6 year olds.) but my pants scream American.  I decide this isn't working for me, everyone knows I am American at first glance, so I decide to buy...      ...skinny jeans.

I gave my brother crap for wearing them before, but boy are they nice.  Since buying them I have been assumed to be Italian on at least 5 occasions, sometimes with people asking me for directions. 

Step 5.
The Language
I can do the accent.  Of all the facets of the Italian language: reading, writing, speaking, listening, and pronunciation, I am by far the best at pronunciation and can sound authentically Italian.  I just need to get the listening comprehension and spontaneous speaking down. 

So far I have applied my dad's saying about skiing and the relationship between the the ride up the lift and actually skiing.

"If you can't look good coming down, at least you look good going up."

Some Other Blogs to Explore

Bianca MonacoLoyola - themonacoperetti.tumblr.com
Aaron Smith, CUA - aaronwsmith51.blogspot.com 
Carolann Stephens, CUA - carolannstephens.blogspot.com
Bill Hogan, CUA - billhogan24.blogspot.com
Elise Crawford, CUA - elisecrawford.blogspot.com

I guess the CUA students know whats up at blogger...

17 January 2012

Beginning of Week 2

Rome is a very easy city to walk, the blocks are much smaller than a typical city block.  The walking itself may not be easy (cobblestones and such), but I walked all across this city Saturday night and Sunday (According to MapMyRun.com its 3 and 5.5 miles, respectively).  It was really helpful (I know the city extremely well now) and a positive externality of this was working off all the pasta and pizza I am eating (which is about every meal).

The cough is sticking around, and getting real annoying.

This is just a bad post.  I have a lot to say, but I'm so tired I can't get anything going.  Though I'll leave you with this last tibit:

I am forgetting how to spell words in English because I am spending so much time immersed in Italian.  Today I asked how to spell "resurrection"...

13 January 2012

Quick Hit

Just woke up and had breakfast.  I have no idea how i got so tired as to sleep in til 11.  Typically I'm up no later than 9:30, usually because the sun rises on my bed, but especially because I don't want to waste my time in Rome.

But to the point of this post.

She composts! Signora lives in the city and she composts.  That's just awesome.  Sorry I know none of you really care, but the inner environmental policy geek in me does.  Composting and recycling can cut down on trash output.  Compost able materials account for almost 27% of the entire United States' waste output.  Think of all the space we could save in landfills.  Mi dispiace per la tangente.

12 January 2012

Just another post

The posts are probably going to start slowing down.  I don't know how many times I can say "Italiaidea was good today," when I have it for three hours every day, and I don't know how many times you want to read it.  But I will keep you up to date with the cool happenings in other parts of my life.


Today I went to the post office to complete my Permesso di Soggiorno (ya know so I don't get deported).  They did teh whole "take a number thing," but there were 4 different types of numbers.  I eventually chose ticket E, waited 30-40 minutes for my number to be called, then found out I needed ticket P.  So i took ticket P.  The friend I was meeting finally showed up, but was then 50 numbers behind me.  With 5 numbers to go for me and 55 to go for her, she found out a copy of her passport wouldn't do, she needed the original.  She had half an hour to go for her number, so I told her she had time to go get it.  I finished my Permesso, but her number was coming closer and closer and she wasn't there.  I took another ticket just in case she didn't make it, and she didn't.  She waited for about 20 minutes with her new number, completed her Permesso, flirted with three post office employees, and then we were off.

We ate out are new "usual" hangout, Bar delle Vite.  Like me, she is a different person when hungry and needs to be fed to keep the happy side out.  Fancy that.

Then Italiaidea.  It was fun.  Moving on.

Current struggle is to find a coat, boots, and a bag.  In that order.  Is it wrong to buy Levi's boots in Italy?  I like the style, like the price, and everything is at least 50 Euro more.  Coats are a different story, they're all at least 150 Euro ($175) and that's on sale.  No joy on finding a bag I like yet.  But I'll keep you updated.  Don't you wish you had the fake world problems of a student in Rome?

Dinner was gnocchi and beef.  Va bene.  Though the wine was a bit to dry for me tonight. 

Tomorrow I have lunch with Italiaidea, then Italiaidea, and dinner with the program.  I probably won't update until Sunday. 

Arrivederci.

11 January 2012

Non Ho Mai Potro' Andare a Casa

Even just the food could keep me here.  It is really that good, but we'll get to that in a second.

So I told you guys that I was sick, right?  Well I had the flu for a week, then a cough forever, and it still was not getting better.  So Maria Luisa called the school and made a doctor's appointment for me.  It was going to be 100 euro just to see him, but I needed to get better.  He was an American doctor, his office wasn't the easiest to find and i was weezeing like a fat kid on the kickball field by the time I made it up to his office.

I just realized I told you this story, moving on.

Italiaidea was awesome again.  I' sloooowly getting over the fact I am not in the class I want to be in, nor I think I should be in, but I am making the best of it (being the smartest kid in the class has its perks) and I can already see improvement in my Italian.

Back to the food, but first a quick sentence in Italian because it's worth the translation for you.  No offesa a mia papa, ma il cibo italiano ha cucinato di Maria Luisa e' il cibo migliore abbia mia mangiato.  Tonight she made soup, because I'm sick, with tiny meat ravioli topped with parmigiano (I literally could not remember how to spell that in English so I had to write it in Italian.  I promise I wasn't being pretentious)  Then chicken with spinach cooked in cheese and bruschetta.  I am eating so much better than the students in the dorms and even the rest of the homestays.  I kind of feel bad about it, but I'm too busy trying to digest that feast.

First Two Days of Class

On Monday I took my Italian placement exam.  The oral part was more of a conversation to see where I stodd on pronuciation, vocabulary, sentence structure and ease of speaking.  Then I took a written grammar test that was not so hot, and I would find out my placement when I arrived the next day.  The class is at Italiaidea, a program for teaching Italian to foreingers and they don't use a typical classroom approach, instead the lessons are more like converstation (3) hours facilitated by a staff member to get us comfortable with speaking Italian and creating unique thoughts instead of regugitating already formed phrases from a text.  (It works so well that 1- I enjoy it and can crack jokes with the teacher, and 2- I am resisting spontaneoulsy incorporating Italaiano nella questa posta... oops.)

We'll get back to Italiaidea in a second, because in the morning I had my first class of Liturgical Art and Architecture.  We meet mostly outside of the classroom, except for the midterm and final, at various locations throughout the city.  Our first challenge was to meet at la Colonna Traiano (Column of Trajan) ((Mom find it on the puzzle map).  I was able to take the 628 bus all the way from home to Piazza Venezia, which is right next to the column, but I tend to get jumpy and get off at the stop before mine because I am worried I am going to miss it.  So i got off early and had to walk the last 5 blocks, and it ws COLD.  The weather has typically been great, but then again I havent really been up at 9am much this trip.  We whipped around Rome for a few hours, seeing la Basilica SS. Apostoli, with the tombs of St. Phillip and St. John, as well as a few other churches and liturgical structures. 

We returned to the classroom for 45 minutes of instruction and the coolest thing I learned (I had not known this before and often wondered about it) is that when God created the world it was "good," meaning it was a place He could live as well, and He did live in the garden with Adam and Ever for a time before they sinned and he cast them out into the wilderness (this garden/wilderness//good/bad paradox is important in scripture) and he returned to heaven.  Then God sought to repair the relationship with man and he delivered them to the promised land, and gave them the law, which was good, but no one followed the law so that didn't work.  Finally he decided to become man to fully bridge that gap and surrendered himself to the greatest evil and suffering man experiences in death, descended to hell, deafeated evil, returned to heaven (like a boss), and promised a new salvation.  And what we as Catholics look forward to is not all going to heaven (that's a temporary goal), but teh new creation when heaven returns to earth.  I hope you enjoyed that little tangent, because I did.

Then I returned to Italiaidea at 4 to find that I had been placed in "Pre-Intermediate," and the rest of my peers who I studied with at CUA were in "Intermediate."  I'm not saying I want to be with my friends (I do but thats not my motivation), I'm saying I believe my Italian skills to be above those in my class who struggle to find words and are unconfident in their ability to speak.  I'm not saying they're bad people, I love them, but I don't think I will be challenged enough in that class, and I think I experienced that in the first lesson.  Nonetheless Italiaidea was very fun and was much more comfortable than any Italian class I had ever taken at CUA.  Their teaching style is very unique but I have heard it is very successful.

Dopo Italiaidea, sono prendato aperitivo con mi amica da Loyola, Bianca.  Aperitivo is most similar to the American happy hour after work, but different at the same time.  We went to a bar (remember a bar is more like a cafe, not an American bar) and picked out a half bottle of wine and took it to the bartender/server/barista and told him "prendiamo aperitovo a tavoli."  We sat down at a table outside and teh server brought us our bottle and glasses and oured us wine, we began out conversazione and then the server returned with a plate of chips and small sandwiches, salmon, lox and something (I didn't eat that one, Bianca did, and mozzarella, prosciuto e funghi, mi piace questo)  That's the difference between happy hour and aperitovo.  At happy hour you get half price drinks, appetizers, and a bowl of nuts.  At aperitivo you buy drinks or wine (ours was 8E) and they give you free food.  Va bene.

So after three glasses of wine I returned home just in time for dinner, spaghetti and a dish that I problably could only describe to you as stir fry of chicken, olives, zucchini, and some other vegetables.  Maria Luisa kept pushing the food e il vino rosso perche e' l'ultima medicina.  She expressed concern for my cough and I told her I would go ask for a doctor il dopo giorno poi.  I went to bed and woke up to a knock on my door and a phone call that Maria Luisa aveva telefonato Gabirella, chi e' telefonato Aurora, chi e' telefonato un dottore e ho avuto un appuntamento alla 11:00.  Va bene.  Vada Maria Luisa.  Lei e' la migliore.

I found the doctor with little trouble, I'm a pro at the bus system now, and he was a really nice American odl guy.  Turns out my flu triggered some upper respitory malfunctions and I have a broncho spasm (not the same things Tebow fans experience).  He gave me a ton of medicine: codine, antibiotics, and a cortizone shot in the ass.

Now I'm just hanging out waiting for a friend so I can complete my Permesso di Soggiorno, not get my host mother arrested, deported.

Well this was fun.  Hope to do it again soon.

09 January 2012

Mia Prima Notta con Maria Luisa

Waiting for our host familes was a very anxious experience for everyone.  Some said it felt like adoption day and were nervous if their families would like them, or what if the dad was mean and didn't like them.  I said it was like the claw from Toy Story.  "The claw chooses who stays and who goes."  I was in the last group of 15 to go, so the anxiety had time to build, but oh was the meeting interesting.  She is the littlest nugget (remember Italian Betty White), and she has so much energy.  She yelled "Ciao!" and grabbed my head and pulled me down for the traditional Italian greeting of two kisses on the cheek.  I introduced myself as Giuseppe and I met her son in law Gaetanno who drove with her to pick me up. 

Gaetanno speaks English and was able to help me find Italian words I couldn't find to speak to Maria Luisa or translate large chunks I couldn't explain.  He commented on how much stuff I had (two duffle bags, a backpack, and camera bag), and how small their car is.  We're talking tiny.  Maybe jsut bigger than a smart car, but a lot older.  Maria Luisa told me to sit up front because I'm taller, and we were on our way.

Conversation in the car was challenging.  I was nervous and I was blanking on vocabulary, but we were able to talk about my first few days, when I arrived, what I liked, and Gaetanno helped the conversation along.  He and Maria Luisa would speak to me in Italian and would respond as best I could, but if I didn't understand, Gaetanno would explain in English and I would respond in Italian.

When we arrived at home, I moved in to my house on the fourth floor, the doors are very tiny but my room is spectacular.  I have antique and ornate furniture, a queen sized bed, marble floors, a table, and my own bathroom.  Living la dolce vita.  After I unpacked we all went downstairs to Gaetanno's house (he lives on the floor below with Maria Luisa's daughter Manuela) and chatted and ate finger food.  I was surpirsed at how well my Italian was, though aided by Gaetanno, we were able to talk about sports, the food I like, and my brother.  Gaetanno and Manuela were going out with friends that night, so two more couples arrived but the conversation switched to English.

Typically Gaetanno and Manuela join Maria Luisa for dinner, but since they had plans it was just me and Maria Luisa.  First course was pasta with a light sauce and focaccia bread (try to find it in America, its the best bread ever), second was a lightly friend chicken cutlet with egg and cream sauce and salad, all served with red wine.  I was finally starting to hit my stride in Italian and we were able to cover a wide range of topics from my parents, to university, my travels, what I like about Rome, and I was able to ask her about the appropriate time to use bene and when to use buona.

I have my own bathroom and asked where and when I would do my laundry, and she told me there is a woman who comes in on Wednesdays to do it, and I just have to leave my clothes in the bag.

Sleeping was tough just because I had been up so late the night before, but eventually I fell asleep and was woken up by the sun rising in my window.  Breakfast was corn flakes and mandarin oranges (they LOVE mandarin oranges) with caffe (espresso).  She bought me my own espresso maker; its light purple...


Ciao for now.

08 January 2012

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Most of Sunday


 (This was all written over 4 days)

Begin.

I don’t really know how to write an introduction to this, so I’m just going to jump right in.

Wednesday and Thursday were one day.  Mom and Dad drove me to the airport on Wednesday and accompanied me through to security.  When I went to check in for my flight, we weighed my bag and it was 20 lbs over weight!  Luckily I had packed a collapsible duffle and I was able to repack a second bag and spend less that half it than I would have for an overweight bag.  The good bye wasn’t tough, but that’s not to say I was sad to be leaving them.  It was a mix of excitement and anxiety for Rome and the plane ride over and how I wished they could be joining me (and they will be in March, so don’t feel too bad for them.)

I didn’t sleep much on the flight, maybe two hours, but that was two hours more than a lot of people.  I landed two and a half hours before my shuttle left and an hour before any of my friends, so I waited around the airport, trying not to get pick pocketed or having someone run off with my camera bag. 

First impression of Fiumicino airport was that it’s dirty.  That thought wasn’t important, just wanted to share.  Second impression is that customs is a joke.  I literally picked up my bags, had my passport hastily stamped, and walked through sliding doors marked “Customs.”  Italy is a joke.

The drive in to the city was an experience (Yes, the airport is not in the city, its about 20 minutes outside.  What do you expect for an ancient city?), cars are tiny, fast, and drive very close together, all the while mopeds and motorcycles zip in and out of traffic.  It should probably be “Traffic” with a capital T… that rhymes with P that stands for pool.  Cause its trouble.  (Sorry I couldn’t help myself)  Dr. Dawson (The program director who lives in Rome) told us the key to crossing any street is “commitment.”  I guess that’s true anywhere, but it seems to have worked out well so far.

After we arrived at the school, we dropped our large bags and carried the rest to our hotel, which seemed a marathon away.  We were all tired, gross, and hungry, but the first order for business for everyone seemed to be a shower.  The shower was tiny and had very little water pressure.  Joe was not thrilled, but at least it was hot.

A group of eight of us left the hotel in search of food, and stumbled into the first café we could find.  I was able to use my Italian for the first time when the little old lady seemed flustered at counting all of us and I calmly said “otto.”  She seemed a little more welcoming after that.  We all ordered pizza of course, only to find 18 inches of uncut pizzas in front of each of us.  The food was great.

After lunch we had a 3 hour whirlwind tour of Rome where we saw most of the important sites and resources we would need (Tabacchia, Farmacia, Bar… which is actually different than a bar in America.  Its more like the Italian version of fast food).  After flying across the ocean and Europe on 2 hours of sleep this tour was the last thing any of us wanted to do, but it was a necessary torture and taught us a lot of valuable information, like how to use public transport.

The tour ended at a restaurant where we had our first group meal, a three-course dinner of prosciutto and mozzarella, pasta with ham, and strawberries and cream in a sugar cone dish.  Oh and wine.  And more wine.  The authorities have not determined if it was the exhaustion or wine, but a lot of laughs, and tears, were had at that table.  We safely returned to the hotel with out newfound knowledge of Roman transportation and everyone was asleep by 9:30.

Day 2

Wake up at 7:00.  Breakfast at 7:30.  Leave for mass 8:00.

Oops. I almost forgot to mention mass was at St. Peter’s with the Pope.  nbd.

We got tickets to mass through the program and showed up at 8:00am for the 9:30 mass, possibly pushing aside a few old nuns along the way.  We were seated 4 seats from the aisle and about 40 rows back, definitely part of the early crowd but not the crazy early crowd.  About 30 minutes before mass, the congregation was led in praying the Rosary with the joyful mysteries, as this was the Mass of the Epiphany.  Then mass started, the Pope passed by no more than 15 feet in front of me.  But I didn’t bring my camera.  I chose not to bring my camera because I chose not to be a tourist at mass.  Instead I focused on how awesome it is to be Catholic and celebrate mass in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome with the Pope.

Mass was said/sung in Latin and I followed along in the 110 page mass book.  (Just this one mass was in the book).  Two Monsignors were being ordained as bishops, one from the US and the other from Poland, so the first and second readings were in English and Polish, respectively.  The only other time the mass deviated from Latin was for Pope Benedict’s homily, which he delivered in Italian.  There was no accompanying translation (I guess he didn’t want to be restricted to the text or give any spoilers), but I was able to gather the message of turning yourself to God and knowing that there is more to be offered than just that material world.  Communion was weird, but efficient.  EMCs came up the center aisle, but there were barriers to prevent people from running up to the Pope, so you just had to shuffle through your row to the closest EMC.  Running time was about two and a half hours, and when we exited the basilica, all of St. Peters square was filled with people and I had a moment of, “oh snap.  All these people were watching outside and I was inside with the Pope.  Pinch me.

The rest of the day was information sessions and free time where we explored Rome.  Saturday was more information sessions and in the afternoon we had the opportunity to explore our neighborhoods with those living in it.  (Mine is Prati, northwest of the Tevere)  Prati is a beautiful neighborhood; I found mine and other’s houses with ease and located the most efficient route to school.  When a few students stopped for a quick bite, my friend Alyssa and went looking for the nearest church to her house and stumbled upon La Basilica Parrochiale S. Giuseppe al Trionfale. (Parish Church of St. Joseph)  It was so beautiful and somewhat special to be in the church of St. Joseph, so I said a prayer and dropped a euro in the automated candle machine (they abandoned traditional candles), but it didn’t light.  Somewhat disappointed but nonetheless excited, we hurried back to our friends who hadn’t known we were gone.

On Sunday we checked out of the hotel and schlepped our stuff fifteen minutes back to school where our host families would pick us up that evening.  A group of us went to mass at a church two blocks from school, though no one was too sure of the name.  (I think it is very possible it was Our Lady of Perpetual Help because the icon of Mary holding the baby Jesus looked verrrrry familiar.)  Mass in Italy is a whole new ballgame.  First, the phrase “late arriving crowd” would be an understatement.  At least thirty people came in after mass began and as many as ten with less than 10 minutes before communion.  Then communion.  You’d think there was a shortage on the Body of Christ.  This one lady was up out of her seat and down the aisle before the priest even made it around the altar.  Lines don’t exist in Italy, it’s a free for all there are no traffic patterns.  Then as soon as the deacon announced that mass had ended, those thirty people that came after mass began were gone before the organ could even start playing.  I almost forgot to mention the tourist walking through the church and taking pictures in the middle of mass.  I guess its just another day in the eternal city.

I napped hard through lunch then grabbed a quick bite before our final information session about living with our families.  Eight of us then ran out to grab gelato before out families arrived to pick us up at 6.

I hope that wasn’t too much to read at once.  I tried to break it up in a logical manner; it was just tough to blog with limited time and access to my computer and no internet connection.


Next Time on Un Semestre All’Estero:

Giuseppe’s prima notta con Maria Luisa

A MIO DIO, ABITO A ROMA!

Translate it yourself, I'm not going to do all the work for you.

Posta Prima da Roma

Hey Everyone!

I've been in Rome for four days now.  I arrived early thursday morning, stayed in a hotel with the program until today when I, just now, settled into my homestay.  Maria Luisa is an absolute gem; the Italian Betty White if I do say so myself.  I am quite proud of the broken conversations I have been able to have with her (she doesn't speak english)and her son in law (who speaks English and helps me find words).  I'm working on a huge blog post that covers the first 4 days, it should be up tomorrow.  But for now it's time for dinner.  Buona Sera.


Giuseppe

Castel S. Angelo

Piazza Navona

Italians (or tourists) don't read signs

Inside San Maria Maggiore

Roman Subway Car